The Lost Bread

Stale bread sucks, but French toast is delicious. The other day I made use of an on-the-verge-of-stale baguette by whipping up some delicious French toast. It's such a simple and delicious way to start the day, even if it is almost lunch time. Also, it has lots of wiggle room for creativity; it can be sweet or savoury, you can use any type of bread, you can stuff the bread, you can top the finished product, or just keep things classically simple.

This reminded me though of a message Dave had sent to Daniel and I in the pre-blog days when we just waxed the poetic about food amongst each other. So I did some digging through my inbox and came across this little piece of writing:

Inspired by the latest GQ "what the fuck is wrong with men in America" - style editorial, I've decided to opine on some food verbiage. Equally inspired by my late grandmother, who was as hardcore of a 20th century middle-class francophone woman could be, this literary piece discusses the improper use of the word "french" in recipes.

I was having a lazy Sunday today, a rare occasion as of late. Given a semi-fresh baguette, my first inclination was to make some so-called "french toast". I recall the inspiring woman, in her late eighties, telling one of those stories in which the end moral was how hard life was (without the least hint of bitterness). The example she used that particular day was how she did not comprehend the common "french toast" nomenclature, and had rather been accustomed to calling it "pain perdu" (lost bread).

Lost bread simply implied that what we today call "french toast" was a means of turning not-so-fresh bread into something delicious. 

My first question is how the hell did she ever need to put this recipe to use? In a house with 9 kids, I can't see much ever going bad.

Second, how did the "french" term slip itself into today's (english) wording? Is it an implication that fracophones are more ghetto? creative? or dedicated to deliciousness? Either way, I'll accept the answer to that question as a compliment.

Just a few years ago, our neighbors from the South tranformed the wording for what had been coined "french fries" to freedom fries in an attempt to ban all things french, following France's reluctance to enter the War. Well we all saw how that turned out. Good move, take a potato dunked in liquid heart attack formula and put it as the poster boy for your country's (failed) attempt to control the world's oil supply (pun intended?). 

Thus, I digress. "French toast" is an excellent example of transforming something deemed as lost to the uncreative mind into a staple passed around a family table of eleven and ultimately influencing me, one of the 44 direct offspring of this wonderful hardcore lady. 

I personally keep my "french toast" fairly simple. Aside from eggs and milk, I slip in some cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla. I make plenty of mix and turn the remaining unabsorbed deliciousness into some scrambled eggs. And finally, drench that shit in some maple sizzurp. Not to have at least 2 cans of that maple goodness on hand at all times is pretty much the equivalent to beating up a priest in Quebec.

Feel free to swap french toast recipes boys.

Rock on grand-maman,

David Alexandre Dalbec Marr, CHP

Some valuable insight into the meaning of French toast, no doubt. Dave has a great formula for a simple and delicious "Pain Perdu", and it is usually how I rock my French toast, too. I could go on about how to make French toast filled with cream cheese and jam, or nutella, or whatever, but lets stick to the basics.

You Will Need:

- Loaf of Not-so-fresh bread, cut into slices

- Couple of eggs

- Splash of milk

- A few pinches of cinnamon and nutmeg

- Splash of pure vanilla extract

- Butter

- Maple Syrup, 100% pure and fuckin' Canadian, eh!

In a shallow bowl or dish, crack in the eggs, add a splash of milk, vanilla and a sprinkle of nutmeg and cinnamon. Get the breakfast party started by beating everything together into a golden hued bath of goodness.

Get some butter melting in a pan over medium heat, and start dipping your bread slices into the egg bath. Flip them over and make sure the bread is well soaked in the egg. Sprinkle a little bit of cinnamon and nutmeg on the soaked bread for extra flavour and then fry the bread in the butter until one side is golden brown, then flip.

Once all your French toast is cooked, pile it up on a plate real sexy-like. While the pan is still hot toss in a pinch of cinnamon and nutmeg and let that enjoy the heat for a few seconds. Pour the maple syrup directly into the pan and swirl it around to incorporate all the spices while it bubbles away profusely. Then drizzle that warm, fragrant, sweet sweet tree nectar of the gods on top of that golden stack of rejuvenated bread.

Enjoy with a hot cup of coffee and relish in the delicious simplicity. 

NOTE:

Daniel offered up a great suggestion with his version of French Toast, by incorporating some orange juice instead of milk and some zest from the rind. "The bitter/sour combination really sets it off and provides a delicate balance that makes you want to take more bites."

Broke Ass Stew: Beef Bourgondaniel

The idea of peasant food is having a great resurgence in our current food climate. This represents a trend towards less refined, seemingly heartier meals. The North American nomenclature dictates it "comfort food" and it's a huge buzzword from restaurants to magazine recipes. The roots of dining are essentially based on two historic systems: what the rich ate,what the poor ate. The nature of each cuisine evolved culturally throughout history. Certain dishes remiain eternal and show up in many different cultures and societies. Things like stews, soups, and breads remain eternal. Stylings are often based on regional nuance such as altitude, climate, availability of water and other natural resources.

France is a prime example about how differences within a small country can afford a huge spectrum of cuisine. In Northern France you have rich, hearty dishes that reflect cooler temperatures and greater diversity of things like root vegetables. As you move south thinks get lighter, fresher, and decidedly more mediterranean. Fish and shellfish are represented a lot more as well as fresher soft herbs and lots of acidity. Wines as well will follow similar progressions, with more full bodied varietals representing themselves in cooler regions, fruitier, more zesty wines in warmer regions closer to water.

This all lends itself to obvious evolutionary truths about what satisfies our needs. Thus far those at dedicated have been stoked on summer. As we find our regions climate transitioning into the autumnal equinox the innate desire for that comforting, heartier food to warm our cockles is impossible to deny.

From the 17th century and prior hearty food was described as too coarse for a wealthy stomach, and that more refined and lighter dishes were all that the rich should consume. The irony of course is that the food of the peasant was the most delicious and is what now dominates our food landscape.

A prime example of region and social status affecting a dish is with beef bourguignon. A classic dish that originated in the burgundy region, the complex acids in wine were used as a tenderizer for cheap, less regarded cuts of beef. The richness and depth of burgundy perfectly compliment the savoury earthy flavours of slow cooked beef. Although this would typically highlight a large cut of meat cooked whole, it has been modified to provide a quicker execution.

Now then, down to the business of some tasty ass shit.

When I want some tasty ass stew, I fully look to incorporate lot's of super meaty (manly) and intensely savorily flavours. Bacon, onions, mushrooms, potatoes, garlic, beef, red wine and stock. Thats the essential components of delicious bourgonion.

To assemble this masterpiece I bought a few chicken carcasses for 99 cents a pound at my local butcher ( http://tinyurl.com/2ckncko )as well as 2 lbs of cubed chuck. I simmered the chickens for about 3 hours with a rasher of delicious dry-cured bacon and a few small onions. Next I gave the chuck a pat dry, a good whack of seasoning and a hard roast.

The meat should be paid careful attention to when roasted. Not over crowding the pan allows you to maintain a high heat. Caramelization is guaranteed and as caramelization is equal to deliciousness it is definitely worth being patient as your meat parties (it's also good to open your windows cause it may get smoky. Also don't worry about the grease splattering, thats what Vim is for.) Once your meat is good and roasted toss in about 3 tbsp of flour and let it cook for another five minutes. This will thicken your peasant stew later on. Pour off the excess fat and deglaze with a good strong red (ideally a Burgundy but substitute anything red that isn't fucking zinfindel). Let it bubble away until the wine is half reduced. Transfer to a decent sized pot and dump in your quick chicken stock (quicken stock) and a bit of fresh thyme. Allow to cook lid on for 2 hours on a low heat. Good things are happening so chill. Watch The Big Lebowski or go for a bike ride. Check it every now and then, have a taste and enjoy the proper smells. Low boil and fragrant steam mean your killing it old-world style.

After about an 1 1/2 - 2 hours things will be looking up. More so if your safe with the stove knobs. Tender is the goal. In the meantime fire up another pan and chop about a 1/2 lb of bacon into eating size chunks. Chop a medium white onion or man up and peel a bag of pearl onions by first soaking them in warm water. Saute your onion off in a touch of butter on a low heat until they get golden, then dump in your bacon. Let it rock until all the liquid cooks off and the bacon crisps up. Pull everything out but leave the fat, chuck the mushrooms in and let them soak up so much goodness in that devilish little pan.

Once the mushrooms are roasted this fine (I threw in some sliced garlic once the shrooms had colour because mushrooms and garlic are so right) then set them with the onions and bacon. Peek at the stew. What's it like? Pull a bit of meat out and let it cool a touch. Is it nice? No? Fuck. Put it back in and let it go a bit longer, but with the lid off. The stew will reduce and concentrate the flavours. Add a bit of salt and a lot of pepper. Freshly ground black pepper in large quantities has an undeniably savoury flavour that will elevate this broke ass stew quick. Once the meat is almost tender drop in your potatoes, and a few minutes later drop in the rest of the garnish. Let it cook until its all soft, quadruple check the taste for salt (or maybe acid, a bit of lemon juice or vinegar?). At this point you should be fucking hungry. Serve this proper stew with some roased veg, or mashed potatoes, or nothing, or scallions chopped up and soaked in olive oil with some pickled pepper brine. I love the spicy-zesty contrast from the onions.

Suck it bitter cold wind.

One love, daniel

Food For Thought

Not exactly a new documentary, but I just stumbled across this on Tha Coop while creeping the blogosphere.  Check out the trailer, but the film itself is definitely worth a view.

Mac-n-Cheese With Steez

This past Sunday I found myself strolling through the Byward Market, simply captivated by all the fresh and local goodness the vendors had to offer. Mallory can attest to the fact that I seemed like a total space cadet as I was overwhelmed by the colours and quantity of the amazing produce that surrounded me. We picked up a bounty of fresh fruits and vegetables, and dipped into the market's cheesemonger to cop some quality dairy products. We ended up walking away with a nice hunk of canadian cheddar and some top quality cottage cheese with aspirations to make some bad ass, homestyle mac and cheese to warm us up after a day walking about in the cold Ottawa drizzle. 'Twas an excellent idea and this is how it went down.

Hustle up:

- 1 lb box of suitable pasta (choose a tubular pasta that will hold the creamy sauce well, like a penne, macaroni, or cavatappi. I used cavatappi, which is also called scoobi doo)

- 1/2 - Full stick of Butter

- 2 Garlic cloves, chopped

- 1 small onion, chopped super small

- 2/3 cup of all-purpose flour

- Can of delicious beer (or a case of further drinking)

- 4 cups (1 Litre) of milk

- One can (354mL) of unsweetened evaporated milk

- 1 lb of good quality medium aged cheddar cheese, shredded

- A couple tablespoonfuls of your favourite dijon mustard

- Tablespoon of paprika (if you can get or got some smoked paprika, give it a try)

- A few generous pinches of chili powder

- Tub of cottage cheese (find some that is pretty thick)

- Sea Salt and Black Pepper

- 1/2 loaf of some sort of delicious italian bread torn into small pieces, preferably from your local bakery

- Splash of Olive oil

Get the oven heating up to 350 degrees. While the cooking box does its thang, boil some salted water and get your pasta cooked to 'al dente', which means its tender, yet still has a bit of bite or density to it. You really don't wanna over cook the pasta as you're cooking it in the sauce later. Should be about 7-8 minutes in the boiling water.

Time to get saucy. In a large sauce pan, or the pot you boiled the pasta in, melt about 1/2 the stick of butter over medium/medium-low heat. Add the chopped onion, cooking until it starts to soften, smells delicious, and become translucent. Throw in the garlic, and continue to cook until everything starts to get a little bit golden. You may need to add a few hunks of butter as the onion will absorb some and you need the butter to make the 'roux'. Add the flour and stir the mix with a wooden spoon until a thick and smooth paste is formed. If it's too doughy add a few more hunks of butter and incorporate. This paste is the 'roux' and it is frequently used for making sauces, so it is good to become familiar with it. The roux is used for thickening sauces as it has flour in it and by combining the flour with butter, it can be evenly distributed throughout the sauce, and ultimately prevents nasty lumps. Continue to cook the roux for a few minutes so it gets all toasty like, thus developing more flavour. Slowly stir in a few big splashes of the beer until the mixture becomes smooth again.

Gradually stir in both milks, then switch your cooking weapon to a whisk, and start whisking that sauce until it is nice and smooth. Continue to whisk (if you have pansy wrists, switch with a friend) and whisk for several minutes until that sauce is pretty thick.

Now its really time to party. Stir in the cheese, dijon, paprika, chili powder, and a good dash of salt and cracked pepper. 

Add the cooked pasta into the cheesy sauce of goodness, and stir to get everything nice and sloppy. Pour the sauce/pasta party into a big ass casserole dish, something like 9"x13, or a couple smaller dishes, ooor if you're fancy enough to have a individual oven proof ramikans (fancy for bowls), you can use those, too.

Spoon nice dollops of cottage cheese all over the top of the noodle party and crack a little more black pepper over top. Proceed to toss the bread chunks with a splash or two of olive oil, and then spread it out over the pasta. 

Throw it in the cooking box and bake until it is heated through and the top is sexy and golden brown, approximately 30 minutes, but it really depends on the size of the dish used. 

When I cooked this up, I used a mix of a medium aged cheddar, and some extra old cheddar (both Canadian, yay local food!) for nice sharp cheese flavour. You can definitely mix it up with whatever type of cheese you want, and you can even throw in some meat like cooked sausage, ham, BACON!, ground beef, or mix in some small chunks of cauliflower, broccoli, or whatever veges you have on hand. Serve with a nice green salad, and get dedicated.